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Prague Restaurants Move Up in Class

Sunday, September 24, 2000
Always A Critic; In Prague, a city better known for its music than its cuisine, a former restaurant critic is prompted to break old habits

You might say I went to Prague not for the food, but in spite of it. Prague's cooking, after all, is known to be like London's was two decades ago: Guidebooks describe even the better restaurants as "passable" or "surprisingly decent." The signature dish is dumplings that taste like boiled English muffins. Ask locals about the restaurants, and they'll talk about the beer halls, the ancient cellars, the Baroque plasterwork and the brilliant mosaic tiles. Press them about the food, and they just mumble.

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